I ended up applying 3-4 layers of paint to the mask and had to use some model paint for the metal eyepieces. Once dry, I applied a coat of reconditioner and let it set. Following the instructions on the box, I cleaned the mask and let it dry. I opened my Forever Black Bumper & Trim kit (I chose this kit as it contained both a cleaning solution and paint designed for rubber). I used an old-school can opener to slightly pry open the metal prongs surrounding the glass eyepieces which allowed me to easily pull both off. To prepare for painting, I wanted to remove the eyepieces. L: The removed Serbian outlet valve C: The Serbian mask without the outlet valve R: The American outlet valve easily fits into the hole. The Serbian outlet valve without the rubber cover I carefully removed the rubber cover and used a pocket knife to carefully unhook the wire. The Serbian mask had a rubber cover for the outlet valve which was held on by tape and wire. Steps Serbian M1 Gas Mask with WWII American outlet valve Outlet valve from WWII-era civilian gas mask.While all the parts are virtually identical, the US gas masks came in black rubber instead of grey rubber. My At the Front M7 Rubberized Assault Gas Mask Bag with the Israeli Gas Mask I previously used as a fillerīased on my previous research, I knew that this bag would have contained the E6-3-7 Army Assault Mask (often called the M5 by reenactors), but these are often sold for hundreds of dollars and I didn’t want to spend that sort of money on this.Ī few other reenactors had suggested converting a Serbian M1 Gas Mask, which is essentially a clone of the later US M9 Gas Mask. Previously, I had simply tried to create the look of a full bag by using an old Israeli gas mask I had picked up in high school. A soldier wearing the M7 Rubberized Assault Gas Mask Bag takes cover during the opening scene of Saving Private Ryan.
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